David and Josie flew first to Amsterdam, spent a night in a hotel overlooking a canal, then to Tel Aviv, where they strolled along the seawall in jackets and boots, wrapped in wool scarves, watching the Mediterranean in all its wintry fury, a lone surfer battling large silver waves that dashed to shore. Now, driving down the desert roads to Inbal, they were shedding layers, uncoiling scarves, rolling down windows, until it was hot enough to turn on the air conditioning, all in the course of two hours. The view through the windows turned yellower, sparser as they drove down a narrow winding road into the Jordan valley. David clutched the wheel, foot hovering above the brake pedal. With every turn he pictured the car continuing over the abyss or crashing into trucks coming up the road. “There it is,” Josie gasped, pointing straight ahead. The Dead Sea glistened blue and long in the crease of the earth, inviting, deceptive. “200 Metres Below Sea Level,” a sign on the side of the road announced.
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