But red sauce goes well beyond the greasy, garlic-laden stuff from the pizza parlor. The classic marinara sauce is simple and fresh, redolent with the flavors of sweet onions, carrots, and celery as well as the aromas of garlic and olive oil—but in moderation, not in the overpowering fashion of a bygone era. Remember that your tomato sauce will taste only as good as the tomatoes you put in: Although fresh tomatoes are ideal, their season is limited, and it’s no small task to boil, peel, and seed them; that’s not really everyday cooking. So I normally use the best canned ones I can find, preferably the San Marzano variety. I always have a few cans of both crushed and whole tomatoes on hand, depending on my needs. You should too. Kick up your marinara sauce by trying my recipe for Tomato Sauce with Olives. MARINARA SAUCE This is the basic tomato sauce that I use the most. It takes a bit of time to make, but it’s worthwhile because the sauce is so versatile—and during the hour of simmering I can be doing other things out of the kitchen.
