La Lib tends to fill up with drunken merrymakers from the capital at Easter time. All the forecasts called for surf. The timing was good for me, as Cara Sucia’s workers also expected a break. We rode a slow bus to Usulután, in the east of the country, then hitchhiked to a remote part of the coast meant to have great waves. Ben had been there once before, with a traveling surfer from Australia. At this time of year, all of the stones were still painted with the colors and initials of political campaigns. Most bore the red, white, and blue of ARENA—the U.S. client party that’s held the presidency for years. The reds and yellows of the former guerilla party were well represented. Third parties gained some ground, including one that deftly usurped a green-and-gold look from the Brazilian soccer team. Our final ride came from a pickup truck selling melons. The vendor let us ride in the back, along with our surfboards, backpacks, and tent. Melons rolled from side to side with each hill and bump.
