Share for friends:

Read Near A Thousand Tables: A History Of Food (2003)

Near a Thousand Tables: A History of Food (2003)

Online Book

Rating
3.73 of 5 Votes: 3
Your rating
ISBN
0743227409 (ISBN13: 9780743227407)
Language
English
Publisher
free press

Near A Thousand Tables: A History Of Food (2003) - Plot & Excerpts

This book is thoughtful, wide-ranging, iconoclastic, brilliant, elegant, and packed with fascinating, abundantly documented information. It’s an exhilarating race through the entire history of where food came from and what it means to humankind. It encompasses psychology, sociology, science, culture, literature, religion, and politics, along with its culinary history. Fernández-Armesto doesn’t shy away from anything, delving into everything from cannibalism to the raw food movement. (“Culture begins when the raw gets cooked.”) This book is so rich in facts, history, and insights that it is difficult to even imagine where to begin describing it. Of course, he covers the transition from hunting to farming and discusses the foods that have had the biggest impact on the planet (rice, wheat, maize, sugar, and so on). But it is the scope of the work, the passion, and the insights into the significance of food that elevate it. We can almost imagine him in a lecture hall, his voice rising with the heat of his argument, as he holds forth on the importance of some key point, such as in the chapter “The Edible Earth” when he writes about farming.“Whether invented or evolved, the farming of plants did more, in the long run, to alter the world than any previous human innovation. The impact of the hunters, fishers, and stockbreeders of the last chapter could not compare—not on the landscape, or on ecological structures or even on diet. … Plants are 90 percent of the world’s food. Plant farming still dominates the world’s economy….We still depend on it absolutely. It is the basis of everything else.”The author joyously explodes a lot of popular myths. For example: “The idea that the demand for spices [during the Middle Ages] was the result of the need to disguise tainted meat and fish is one of the great myths of the history of food. It is more likely that fresh foods in the Middle Ages were fresher than today, because locally produced, and that preserved foods were just as well preserved in their different ways—by salting, pickling, desiccating and conserving—as ours are in the age of canning, refrigeration, and freeze-drying (a technique which, by the way, was known in antiquity and developed to a high degree by Andean potato growers in what we think of as the Middle Ages).” Or “It was probably pigs and horses, not people, that took, to the New World from the old, the diseases that began the precipitate collapse of Native American populations” (he notes, as he explains why herding is more dangerous to humans than hunting). Or even, “More than 50 percent of those with afflicted hearts do not have high cholesterol counts.”He worries about our relationship with food. He notes that, “The loneliness of the fast food eater is uncivilizing. Food is being desocialized.” He observes that the health-obsessed and food faddists share in common with cannibals the tendency to take their meaning from what they eat. He frets over what the microwave is doing to our dining habits, and opines, “Readers who could have Brillat-Savarin settle for the Williams-Sonoma catalogue.”The book sweeps from “The Invention of Cooking: The First Revolution” to “Feeding the Giants: Food and Industrialization in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries,” scooping up “The Meaning of Eating: Food as Rite and Magic,” “Food and Rank: Inequality and the Rise of Haute Cuisine,” and “Challenging Evolution: Food and Ecological Exchange,” among other topics, as he whirls through the millennia, weaving together a tapestry of what food has meant to our world and what it means to us now.This is not breezy writing. It is the kind of dense, rich, juicy prose that we language arts majors relish. But if you love rich writing, as well as rich food, this book is a real treat.

Two of my favourite things, history and food, in a brown paper parcel, tied up in string. Well it's got a browny-goldish dust jacket, anyway, and look, here's a piece of string...No one could accuse Fernandez-Armesto of aiming low or of underestimating his own abilities. That he manages in only 224 pages to convince the reader that he has come close to providing a comprehensive history is a tribute to his enviably broad knowledge and energetic swashbuckling style. This book is tremendous fun to read, if a little rambling in places. Although it betrays the author's various intellectual and geographical biases, I have decided not to take offence, since I share some of them. The broadly chronological, yet topical arrangement of the material works well (each chapter discusses a revolution in the history of food, from the invention of cooking itself, through the spiritual and social meanings of meals, to industrial machinations) and he spices up each chapter with titbits and hints from other parts of the book, so it's never boring. He busts a few myths along the way, and manages to weave the weird and wonderful into a compelling narrative. I now wish I'd taken notes so that I could say something more specific, but so be it. Like a wonderful banquet it made a great impression on me, and I remember that it was delightful more than how it was delightful. Thus, like all my meals, valuable at the time, its nutritional value is now largely history.

What do You think about Near A Thousand Tables: A History Of Food (2003)?

This book is broadly organized into chapters that examine how the acquisition and preparation of food affects the organization of human society. The divisions are interesting: the evolution of cooking, the rise of herding and agriculture, food as an expression of religion, culture, or rank, the effect of cultivation and commerce on the environment, and lastly the rise of industrial food preparation. There are many interesting parts in this book, particularly historical facts and the discussions of class and culture.The author's strong intellectual biases, however, trump all other analysis of the historical record on which he draws. At one point he castigates contemporary humanity for assuming that early societies were lacking in any kind of sophistication or intellectual curiosity. In the next chapter he dismisses all religious dietary restrictions as superstition, with no observable or rational basis in fact. Really? His litany of ancient food-related beliefs is amusing, and is one that can be continued right to the present day (fat is okay, fat is very bad, no wait, fat is okay again), but he doesn't go that far in the discussion, because it would undercut his criticism of earlier beliefs. Overall the book is a rambling (and I do mean rambling, full of digressions and trips down rabbit trails) meditation on food and human society, interesting in parts, but too inconsistent and intellectually lazy to be wholly useful.
—Catherine

I read this book back in 2003. Here is what I wrote in my journal at the time: >>Finished reading Fernandez-Armesto's Near a Thousand Table. This history of food is a book to be savored; it is not fast paced, but it is a book with interesting content. The book is arranged on the basis of major revolutions in food history, but then we get to see how these revolutions affected human history. Some of these revolutions include the concept of cooking, the idea of eating as having ritualistic significance, and the idea of food consumption as a social marker (the concept of haute cuisine falls into this). A particularly interesting idea for me was the author's link between cannibals and vegans. Cannibals in ancient and primitive cultures would consume their slain enemies in order to gain their strength or bravery. Vegans eat vegetables in order to improve their health, and it can also have a spiritual angle. The common idea is that both consume food in order to improve their bodies and spirits. Also interesting to read were the narratives of food travels from one continent to another, and how this shaped history. Overall, this would be a book I would strong recommend. A similar title would be Jared Diamond's Guns, Germs, and Steel. < —Angel

My one nitpick about it is that the words are very small. What is supposed to "only" be a 224 page book took me forever to read. Anyway, while the material can be a little dry at times the author does a good job in keeping it interesting. It is fun to read about how people used to eat in the olden days and how we as westerners, for the most part, have completely abandoned any sort of healthy or balanced diet. I recommend it to anyone that has an interest in seeing history through the lens of food, but it isn't leisurely reading to say the least.
—James Alvino

Write Review

(Review will shown on site after approval)

Read books by author Felipe Fernández-Armesto

Read books in category History & Biography