We see a small, plain desk in a room that can’t be more than thirty square metres. The border runs right through the middle of this desk. After some explanation from the guide, we go back to the grand building that constitutes North Korea’s watchful eye on the South. From the South Korean side, it’s said that the building is actually just a metre-thick façade, but we can confirm that it does indeed contain marble stairs and a sturdy balcony from which we can see tour groups on the southern side. The tourists walk gravely and stiffly along the road to the same blue barracks that we’ve just visited, but from the other end. They’ve been told not to make any sudden movements with their arms; this could incite the North Korean military to open fire. Trond and Ari wave and shout at the tourists. We think they look funny, a solemn line slinking toward the barracks. THE BIGGEST MILITARY presence in the world is on our side of the DMZ.
