Allegedly, it was a very, very small pot plant. Not a leaf, but a seedling. Oddly enough, it wasn’t even mine, nor was I actually in trouble over it; it was just the final straw in a series of misadventures. But if I hadn’t been thrown in jail; if I hadn’t destroyed that miniscule piece of evidence that wasn’t even against me; and if I hadn’t been mad and maybe just a little crazy, I might never have decided to leave California for Hawaii. Going back in time to Ocean Beach, my boyfriend had abandoned me and moved to Mammoth with his friends. Broken-hearted, I struggled to pay the rent as I worked at the Homestead health food restaurant, the very same restaurant my future husband frequented. But it would be far too simple a story for me to have noticed him then. I was too focused on everyday life, either at work or in the water, even though he often surfed the same spots I did. It was a very lonely time for me. I felt as if I were not tethered to anything. And because I was young and maybe a bit naïve, I imagined that if I went up to Mammoth, I could patch things up with my ex-boyfriend—even though he had told me in his letter that we were over.
What do You think about Raising A Soul Surfer (2011)?
