River-Horse: A Voyage Across America - Plot & Excerpts
To control “traffic” between mid-May and mid-September of each year, the Bureau of Land Management does not permit boats with motors to go upstream on the 111-mile segment of the Missouri from Kipp Landing to Virgelle. When I learned of the prohibition, even though all other aspects of the voyage lay in order, I was troubled by such a long portage around the most famously scenic stretch of the river. A cartage where there was no alternative was one thing, but a portage where water—beautiful and historic water—existed to let a boat pass was something else. An agent with the BLM told me an exception was remotely possible, but a request would require weeks for a decision. He listened as I explained our proposed trip and my deep resistance to portaging. After some time, he volunteered to take us over those miles in a government patrol boat. We would have to travel faster than I wanted, but I had no other choice. With reluctance, I accepted. At Fort Peck, I called the agent to tell him we were about two days out, but he needed more time, so we decided to spend the unexpected free day in the lodge rather than in a tent upriver.
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